We are seeking rock climbing route information on five local crags in the Portland area with the intent of creating a new concise guidebook for climbers. The crags are: Broughton Bluff, Rocky Butte, Madrone Wall, Carver Bridge Cliff, and Beacon Rock. Specific data on new rock climbs that have been established in the past 5-10 years at these crags is most desirable. We would like to know the following:
Route Name
Rating
Protection (type of wires, cams, size of pro)
Does it require other gear?
Is the route bolted, and with how many bolts?
Location of the rock climb
Quality (consensus as to 1, 2, 3, or 4 star)
First ascent data is not necessary. This information is being gathered for a future condensed Portland rock climbing guide. The knowledge of those routes that you are willing to share will help tremendously to strengthen the guidebook database for rock climbing routes at these crags. Any recent lead climbing photos within the last 5 years in any of the local cliffs would be helpful.
Submit your information or photos to Tim Olson at: PRC3Book@yahoo.com
Thank you for your assistance.
Once a quarry, now private property, Carver offers a mix of bolted and crack climbs, and some of the best bouldering around. Climbers may use the land at Carver after filling out a waiver at the Portland Rock Gym and paying a one-time $8 membership fee.
The 10 cliffs of Broughton Bluff offer climbers longer pitches than Carver and other local spots. Located in Lewis and Clark State Park, 15 miles east of Portland on I-84, Broughton also offers minimal top-roping opportunities at Hanging Gardens Wall, and bouldering at the Magma Zone.
If you love long crack climbs, this is the place to go. The only drawback is its limited access--closed half of the year for peregrine falcon nesting, this awesome crag is only available from 7/15 - 2/1. Beacon is 45 miles east of Vancouver,WA on Highway 14.
Portland's first outdoor climbing area is still popular with beginners. Walk to the top, sling your rope around a tree and rappel. For a change of pace, traverse the castle wall. Take I-84 east to the 82nd Avenue exit. Proceed north to Fremont. Turn right, go up hill to the college, and veer left to the white domes.
Another great spot for beginners, with lots of top-roping. A no bolt or piton ethic/rule is in place here. Bring your gear. Horsethief Butte is 1-1/2 hours east of Portland. To get there, take I-84 east, to the Dalles bridge. Cross the bridge and go 3-4 miles east on Highway 14.
Nestled in the Mt. Hood National Forest, French's Dome's juggy andesite offers a completely different climbing experience from Portland's other crags. Sport routes range from 5.6 to 5.12b. Highlights include a great 10b ("a true pumpfest"), and the classic Chinaman (11b) - arguably the best example of its grade in the state, outside of Smith Rock. Take Highway 26 east past Sandy to Zig Zag. Turn left on lo Pass Road. Set your odometer. It's exactly 6.2 miles to the crag.
By far the most popular moderate climbing area in Portland, Madrone has been closed for 3 years while Clackamas county attempts to use it for quarry. When open, Madrone's shady cliffs offered great coverage in hot summer months and wet winter ones. Routes here are relatively short and cover a wide range of grades, with most lying between 5.8 and 5.12a.
Like Carver, Lost Wall is located on private property. With its base among old growth pines, this amazing wall boasts a 5.11b/c arete not to be missed. Efforts are underway to reopen Lost Wall to climbers. If successful, access will be overseen by the Carver Climbing Club.
A recently discovered bouldering area by Jared Bernert and friends, this area is somewhat difficult to find, but worth the effort once there. Jared states, "Traveling between areas is difficult where trails are absent. If you are on an existing trail that is being overtaken by brush, please help to maintain it so these areas can be accessed by all. Beware of the poison oak that flourishes in the summertime, and the wolf spiders and scorpions that live in the moss. This is a very quiet, very peaceful area close to the city; please take great appreciation of the climbing, and the utmost respect to the delicate environments, they are very special."
Directions:
From Portland, take I84 out to the Bridge of the Gods (approximately 41
miles), or take Hwy 14. Take Hwy 14 from the bridge east only a quarter
mile and turn left onto Ash Lake Road. Continue to the back of the lakes
and go left up the steep gravel hill for half a mile. Travel under the
power lines and see the campgrounds on right. Park here to access the
first or second areas. Continuing on the gravel road, you'll see a polished
boulder in a ditch with some problems, and past this is a great problem
further up the road. Before reaching this boulder, another road travels
uphill; at the top there is more room to park on a dirt road, and quicker
access to second area. From this point, travel 1/2 mile more down the
gravel road to a dirt pullout on the right heading downhill. Park here
to access "the Dome" area.